What’s Trending? An Update on Today’s Wine Consumer and Product Trends, Part 1

By Dr. Kathy Kelley, Professor of Horticultural Marketing and Business Management

Last week, I spoke at the 2020 License to Steal National Wine Marketing Conference held in conjunction with the Eastern Winery Exposition in Lancaster, PA. During one of my sessions, I presented data and insights that describe current alcohol consumption, product trends, and food trends to be aware of that could influence what wines consumers might drink with trendy meals and flavors.

This post includes the information I presented, updated data and additional sources, and elaborates on specific topics.

How many of us are drinking alcohol?

According to Gallup, 65% of U.S. adults age 18 and older had “occasion to use alcoholic beverages such as liquor, wine or beer” in 2019. Since data were first recorded in 1939, this percentage has ranged between 56 and 71% (Saad, 2019). The average number of alcoholic drinks consumed during a week was 4.0, which is slightly lower than the number Gallup recorded from 2002 to 2010 (4.6 drinks per week), but higher than the number for the period of 1996 to 2001 (3.4 drinks per week) (Saad, 2019).

Data published by the Wine Market Council, collected in June 2019, is only from adults age 21 and older (Wine Market Council, 2019), and reveals that:

• 75% of participants drank alcohol, even if consumption was “infrequent” and “less than every 2-3 months.”
• 12 to 16% of participants in each generation responded that they were “high frequency wine drinkers,” and consumed wine more than once a week.
• 32% of iGen (a.k.a Gen Z) participants drank wine “occasionally” (once every two to three months to, at most, once a week), which was significantly higher than all other generations reported (a range of 24 to 26%).
• 18% of iGen did not consume alcohol, which is a significantly lower percentage than Baby Boomer participants (31%) and those aged 74 and older (37%).

What alcoholic beverages are consumers drinking?

According to Silicon Valley Bank’s 2020 State of the Wine Industry report (McMillan, 2020), based on data from the Nielsen Homescan Panel (52 weeks ending June 29, 2019), for those who consumed alcohol:

• 72% of panelists drank beer (including flavored malt beverage and ciders)
• 68% drank wine
• 48% drank spirits

When segmented based on which beverages participants consumed:

• 18% drank beer exclusively
• 15% drank wine exclusively
• 6% drank spirits exclusively
• 19% drank beer and wine
• 8% drank beer and spirits
• 7% drank wine and spirits
• 27% drank beer, wine, and spirits

What about the frequency in which consumers drink wine?

The data below are from two Wine Market Council publications for consumers age 21 and older who drank wine. The first percentage is from a June 2019 survey (Wine Market Council, 2019), and those in parenthesis are from a study conducted in June/July 2017 (Wine Market Council, 2017).

• For both 2017 and 2019, 35% of wine consumers were “high frequency” drinkers as they consumed wine more than once a week 
  • 9.2% consumed wine every day (9% in 2017)
  • 25.8% drank wine “more than once a week, but not every day” (26%)
• 65% were “occasional” drinkers and consumed the beverage less often
  • 17.6% drank wine once a week (19%)
  • 25.2% drank wine 2 to 3 times a month (22%)
  • 10.9% drank wine once a month (13%)
  • 11.3% only drank wine every 2 to 3 months (11%)

As can be seen, only a 0.2% shift occurred between the two “high frequency” categories, whereas changes among the four “occasional” groups were a bit higher.

With interest in how consumption differs between generations, a report published by Mintel (2019) revealed that of the survey participants, age 22 and older, who drank wine within three months before the study:

• 58% of Millennials reported drinking red wine, and 59% drank white.
• Similar percentages of Gen X participants drank red and white wine, 57% for both types.
• Slightly more Baby Boomers and WWII/Swing/Silent generations, 62 and 63%, respectively, drank red wine in the past three months, with lower percentages, 54 and 53%, respectively, responding that they drank white wine during that period.

Data for rosé, champagne/sparkling wine, and wine cocktails (e.g., sangria, mimosas) were also presented, with higher percentages of Millennials responding that they drank rosé (36%), champagne/sparkling (37%), and wine cocktails (30%), than Boomers (28, 15, and 14%, respectively).

Since only individuals age 22 and older in 2019 participate, the survey excluded members of Generation Z, born between 1997 and 2010/2012 (the end dates for the generation vary based on source).

What alcoholic beverages are wine consumers drinking instead? Are consumers choosing low-to-no alcoholic beverages than in the past? If so, why?

In January 2020, Wine Intelligence reported the alcoholic beverages that “regular wine drinkers” who were “switching to” at the Wine Data 2020 conference. Their research revealed that:

• 55% of respondents transitioned to beer,
• 55% hard seltzers,
• 46% vodka,
• 45% whiskey, and
• 39% to craft beer (Todorov, 2020).

According to Dale Stratton, Wine Market Council president, who presented at Wine Data 2020 in January, “52 percent of people aged 21 to 29 years old say they either rarely or never drink wine because they do not like the taste …that’s an opportunity…Make wines that they do like. Educate them on different types of wine and get them into the category” (Todorov, 2020).

As far as projected growth for these individual categories:
the hard seltzer category may triple by 2023 (IWSR, 2020), while the compound annual growth rate (CAGR) for North American beer market may increase by 4.7% from 2018 to 2023 (Market Insight Reports, 2019), and a 2.7% CAGR for spirits for the period of 2020 to 2023 (Statista, 2020).

In addition to these data, the market for low- and no-alcohol (LNA) products is also expected to grow. Data obtained from the IWSR Drinks Market Analyze (https://www.theiwsr.com/global-low-and-no-alcohol-strategic-study/) indicate that the CARG for LNA is as follows for the 2018 to 2023 period:

• Low-alcohol beverage: 25.5%
• No-alcohol options: 2.4% (IWSR, personal communication).

The majority, 80%, of LNA beverages are beers, with the remaining 20% comprised of wine and liquors (Neo and Lim, 2020). Several popular global brands, Heineken, for example, are entering the LNA market with products such as the zero-alcohol Heineken 0.0, which is to have “the same characteristic fruity notes, but with a soft malty body” compared to the original Heineken Beer (https://www.heineken.com/us/heineken00/faq). This product has 69 calories for an 11.2 oz bottle compared to the original Heineken Beer with 142 calories, 11 carbs, and 5% ABV (http://bit.ly/2WkpTzs).

With evidence indicating an interest among consumers and beverage companies in exploring LNA, one may wonder whether LNA is meant to replace the original full alcohol offering. According to Heineken, non-alcoholic beer is “meant to complement rather than replace beer,” giving the consumer the ability to enjoy a beer “during any occasion [at] any time of the day” (Neo and Lim, 2020).

A 2019 article published by Wine Business International included excerpts from a global IWSR report about LNA beverages, citing that “one-third of 21- to 24-year-olds and 35- to 44-year-olds say they consume low- or no-alcoholic drinks two or three times a week” (Siegel, 2019).

What about Gen Z and their attitude and behaviors concerning alcohol? Why might this be?

Based on a 2018 study (Taylor, 2018), members of Generation Z drank “over 20% less per capita than millennials did at the same age,” and that “64% of Gen Z respondents said that they expected to drink alcohol less frequently when they grew older than today’s older generations do.”

And, while it assumed that this generation might drink less alcohol than previous generations, only time will tell whether these sentiments will become realities.

Could this present an opportunity for artisanal grape juices?

Fairview Wine and Cheese Estate outside Paarl, South Africa, “has introduced a refreshing substitute for wine in the form of EGA (spelt age in reverse) …an incomparable, alcohol free product…. Combining the vibrant flavours of grapes, pomegranates and Rooibos, this crisp and zesty drink is an excellent alternative to white wine with a meal” (https://news.wine.co.za/news.aspx?NEWSID=11071).

Rooibos has “high levels of antioxidants and lack of caffeine and has for centuries been prized for its healing properties by the indigenous people of South Africa. EGA is scintillating salmon pink in colour with characteristic Rooibos and pomegranate aromas”

Bottles of EGA stocked at Fairview Wine and Cheese Estate, South Africa

In France, Alain Milliat “professes a disruptive approach at his core: instead of regarding juices as a way to consume fruits, he sees them as a completely separate experience of pleasure, developed to be greater than the mere fruits that compose them. Like any greater composer, he designs them to offer aficionados a tasting full of emotion” (https://www.alain-milliat.com/en/content/7-fondateur).

A few of the “exquisite juices” he has developed from grapes include:

• a sparkling Muscadelle grape juice (0.75L for 9.95 euros/$10.78 US 3/19/2020),
• Gamay red grape juice, sauvignon grape juice, chardonnay white grape juice, cabernet rosé grape juice, and a merlot red grape juice (all are 0.75L for 3.95 euros/$4.28 US).

What about focusing on wine cocktails?

As reported above, 30% of Millennials consume wine cocktails (e.g., sangria and mimosa). Still, there are many other concoctions and options that wineries, restaurants, etc. could suggest that their customers create with wine as a key ingredient. According to David Jackson, SVP Trade Relations, COO for the National Alcohol Beverage Control Association, “Having a well-made, handcrafted cocktail is definitely where things have been going for the past few years” (Swartz, 2019).

How can wineries take advantage of these trends? A quick search on Pinterest using the term “wine cocktail recipes” yields an immense amount of suggestions. For example, long island wine tea, sangria Moscow mule, sparkling apple cider sangria, and many more.

Perhaps a spin on one or more of the best-selling cocktails in the U.S. could be a point of differentiation. These are, in order of ranking:

• Margarita
• Martini
• Old Fashioned
• Mimosa
• Moscow mule

And, while your tasting room and/or restaurant might have a charge per glass of wine, know that “margaritas in the U.S. cost an average of $9.49,” which might help in justifying offering a cocktail menu (The Nielsen Company, 2019), based on the cost of production inputs.

Additional, consider the characteristics that Beverage Daily released in their predictions for tends for “2020 and Beyond,” which highlighted flavors, colors, and textures (Newhart, 2020):

• Flavors
  • Botanicals (basil, cilantro, lavender, sorrel, and orange peel), 
  • citrus (grapefruit, tangerine, blood orange, Meyer lemon, yuzu), 
  • white ginger, and 
  • exotic (dragon fruit, coconut, prickly pear)
• Bright colors & textures 
  • Boba, nitrogen-infusions, whipped ingredients, basil seeds

What other wine beverages could you explore?

As discussed in a blog post published in February 2019, sangria and rosé experienced considerable positive growth for 2018 and 2019 (Kelley, 2019).

In addition to drinking the beverage “straight,” Lolea, one of the sangria brands mentioned in the 2019 post, offers several recipes using their product:

• Lolea Julep,
• Lolea Ice tea,
• Loalea passion “a citrus cocktail with the fruitiness of passion fruit and sweet tones of vanilla, Lolea no. 2, passion fruit pulp, vodka and vanilla syrup” (https://sangrialolea.com/cocktail.php).

Any while much of the branding efforts I have seen for rosé still focus on the female Millennial, in early 2019, UFC champ Conor McGregor launched his own Champ Champ Rosé.”

Here is an excerpt from the article: “I am very excited and proud to introduce Champ Champ Rosé to the world,” said McGregor. “People who know me know I am a proper whiskey man through and through, but they also know I enjoy having a glass of rosé wine on a hot summer’s day (Langeler, 2019).

In part 2, I’ll provide more data and insight into the health and wellness trends, trending food flavors and suggested wine pairings, CBD infused alcoholic beverages and more.

References

IWSR. 2020. US Bartenders See Growing Demand for Low-Sugar/Low-Alcohol Drinks, Hard Seltzers, and Spicy Cocktails. IWSR Drinks Market Analysis. https://www.theiwsr.com/wp-content/uploads/Press-Release-IWSR-US-Bartender-Study-with-infographic.pdf

Langeler, W. 2019. Conor McGregor Launches New “Champ Champ Rose” Brand. Wiskeryriff.com https://www.whiskeyriff.com/2019/04/01/conor-mcgregor-launches-new-champ-champ-rose-brand/

Market Insights Reports. 2019. North America Beer Market Rising Trends and Global Outlook 2019 to 2023. Marketwatch.com https://www.marketwatch.com/press-release/north-america-beer-market-rising-trends-and-global-outlook-2019-to-2023-2019-12-20?mod=mw_quote_news

McMillan, R. 2020. State of the US Wine Industry 2020.  Silicon Valley Bank Wine Division. https://www.svb.com/globalassets/library/uploadedfiles/reports/svb-2020-state-of-the-wine-industry-report-final.pdf

Mintel. 2019. Wine-US-November 2019. 

Neo, P., and G.Y. Lim. 2020. Booze-Free Growth Imminent: Low-to-No Alcoholic Beverages Set to Boom in APAC. Beveragedaily.com https://www.beveragedaily.com/Article/2020/03/12/Booze-free-growth-imminent-Low-to-no-alcoholic-beverages-set-to-boom-in-APAC

Newhart, B. 2020. New Year, New Drinks: What to Watch in US Beverage in 2020 and Beyond. Beveragedaily.com https://www.beveragedaily.com/Article/2020/01/02/2020-trends-to-watch-in-US-beverage

Saad, L. 2019. Liquor Ties Wine as Second-Favorite Adult Beverage in U.S. Gallup, Inc. https://news.gallup.com/poll/264335/liquor-ties-wine-second-favorite-adult-beverage.aspx

Siegel, J. 2019. No- and Low-Alcohol wine in the US. Wine Business International. https://www.wine-business-international.com/wine/analysis/no-and-low-alcohol-wine-us

Statista, 2020. Alcoholic Drinks Report 2019 – Spirits. Statista.com https://www.statista.com/outlook/10020000/109/spirits/united-states#market-revenue

Swartz, K. 2019. 11 Alcohol Trends to Watch in 2019-2020. Beveragedynamics.com https://beveragedynamics.com/2019/07/10/11-alcohol-trends-to-watch-in-2019-20/

Taylor, K. 2018. Millennials are Dragging Down Beer Sales — But Gen Z Marks a ‘Turning Point’ That Will Cause an Even Bigger Problem for the Industry. Business Insider https://www.businessinsider.com/millennials-gen-z-drag-down-beer-sales-2018-2

The Nielsen Company. 2019. All Mixed Up: A Look at Cocktail Preferences Across the On-Premise Landscape. https://www.nielsen.com/us/en/insights/article/2019/all-mixed-up-a-look-at-cocktail-preferences-across-the-on-premise-landscape/

Todorov, K. 2020. Perfect Storm: Consumer Moderate Alcohol Consumption and Embrace New Beverage Options. Winebusiness.com https://www.winebusiness.com/news/?go=getArticle&dataId=225353

Wine Market Council. 2017. 2017 Wine Market Council Wine Consumer Segment Slide Handbook. http://winemarketcouncil.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/2017_WMC_Wine_Consumer_Segmentation_Slide_Handbook2.pdf

Wine Market Council. 2019. 2019 Wine Market Council Wine Consumer Segment Slide Handbook. PDF download: http://bit.ly/2QsTMdb

Adding Bubbles to your Hard Cider

By: Denise M. Gardner

At the recent Sparkling Wine Production workshop in PA, our speakers talked a lot about various production methods used to incorporate carbonation into [grape] wine.  But what about for a sparkling hard cider?

For base cider production, the objectives are similar to that of sparkling wine: create a fresh and fruity alcoholic product with high acid, good apple flavor, and a clean nose and palate.  Nutrient strategies during primary fermentation should be considered by the cider maker, as flaws like hydrogen sulfide (H2S) or general reduction (sulfur-containing off-odors) will diminish the enjoyability of the product.  Carbonation has the tendency to enhance the perception of flaws.  Therefore, it goes without saying that sanitation is generally very important during this process in order to obtain a clean product suitable for carbonation.

For producers that struggle with obtaining high-tannin apple varieties, sparkling [hard] cider may offer an alternative to the establishment’s product portfolio.  In sparkling wine production, low tannin concentrations and perceptions are often preferred, as too much tannin may create a harsh mouthfeel with the additional sensory contribution from the carbonation.  This concept may also be applied to sparkling hard ciders.

Malolactic fermentation, MLF, or partial-MLF is determined stylistically by the cider maker.  Stabilization including protein stabilization and clarification should be completed prior to carbonation.  Dependent on the method of carbonation, sulfur dioxide additions may be required at this step, too.

Dependent on the size and capabilities of the cidery, most sparkling wine production techniques can be utilized by hard cider producers to enhance the carbonation of a hard cider product.

• Bottle conditioning
• Traditional method (Méthode Traditionelle, previously referred to as Méthode Champenoise)
• Charmat, or Tank, method
• Forced carbonation

Bottle conditioning is often used by home brewers as a way to incorporate carbonation in each bottle inexpensively.  The concept is relatively simple: add yeast and some additional sugar to each bottle so that the yeast will ferment the sugar while in the bottle.  Due to the fact the bottle is sealed, the carbon dioxide developed through fermentation will be retained as carbonation in the bottle.  While this is often a preferred method for extremely small operations, the results of this technique are often quite variable, which increases inconsistency amongst the product.  Additionally, the resultant product is not typically clear and residual yeast will settle at the bottom of the bottle.  Sometimes, this noticeable cloudiness and precipitate is not preferred by consumers.  For a good explanation on bottle conditioning, please consider reading this document by Northern Brewer: https://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/AdvancedBottleConditioning.pdf

The Traditional Method (Méthode Traditionelle) is the common practice that is associated with Champagne production.  In this case, carbonation is produced in the bottle by a second yeast fermentation.  The difference between this method and bottle conditioning is that the residual yeast is removed through disgorgement prior to the addition of a final sugar and stabilization liquid, called the dosage.  This production technique has previously been discussed through the blog post: The Bubbles: Basics about Sparkling Wine Production Techniques, which you can access through the link.

Two ways of riddling sparkling wine at Korbel Wine Cellars, CA. This process is often used during the Traditional Method of sparkling wine (or hard cider) production. Photos by: Denise M. Gardner

Although many wine fermentation suppliers offer various product addition options for hard cider producers, Scott Labs currently offers The Cider Handbook to make addition decisions easier for producers.  Their current product portfolio also features encapsulated yeast products, which some sparkling wine producers have had success in using when utilizing the traditional method of production.

Scott Lab’s 2016-2017 Hard Cider Handbook. Photo by Denise M Gardner.

Additionally, this style of sparkling hard cider can use similar equipment utilized by sparkling wine producers.

The Charmat Method (Tank Method) is becoming more popular amongst local wineries, and can also be utilized by sparkling hard cider producers.  Here, the secondary yeast fermentation occurs inside a sealed tank and then the hard cider is racked off of the lees into a second pressurized tank.  The racked cider maintains the carbon dioxide, carbonation, and the second tank it is racked into can contain the final dosage for the whole volume of hard cider in order to manipulate final sweetness and stabilization.  The advantage to this system is that it retains the fruitiness associated with the product and requires less labor compared to dealing with hundreds of bottles in the Traditional Method.  The downside to this processing option is the initial cost of processing equipment required to retain pressure inside a tank.  As with the Traditional Method, details pertaining to the Charmat Process were previously discussed in the blog post: The Bubbles: Basics about Sparkling Wine Production Techniques.

Finally, one of the easiest methods for obtaining carbonation in your product is through the use of forced carbonation.  Some hard cider producers have found success in carbonating kegs of hard cider or working with local wineries that offer carbonation services.  With this method, the hard cider should be fully produced, stabilized, back sweetened (if applicable) and filtered by the time it is carbonated.

 

Reviewing YAN and Hydrogen Sulfide: Part 1

By: Denise M. Gardner

Yeast assimilible nitrogen (YAN) is the sum of the amino acid and ammonium concentrations available in the grape juice at the start of fermentation.  Typically, the amino acid proline is not included in the reported amino acid content as it is not readily utilizable by yeast cells.

The amino acid component of YAN is often referred to as the “organic” YAN form.  In contrast, the ammonium ion content is referred to as the “inorganic” YAN form and may be written in its ionic abbreviation: NH₄⁺.  Due to the fact that ammonium is only connected to a series of protons (H⁺ ions), it tends to be easier to move in and throughout the yeast cell to be consumed during fermentation (Mansfield, 2014). When these two components (organic + inorganic) are added together, the resultant value is the YAN, written with the units: mg N/L.

The winemaking challenge associated with YAN is the fact that it is quite variable, and current research has not identified ways to change the YAN, predictively, in fruit through the manipulation of vineyard practices.  YAN varies by vintage year, grape variety, cultivar, and with the use of various vineyard management practices.  In Penn State’s research vineyards, ~1 acre in size and containing 20 different wine grape varieties, YAN values ranged dramatically each vintage year amongst the various wine grape varieties.  On any given vintage year YAN values ranged from low (<100 mg N/L) to high (>300 mg N/L) amongst the varieties grown in that one site.

The variability associated with YAN provides a secondary challenge to winemakers: the lack of predictability associated with hydrogen sulfide formation during primary fermentation due to unfulfilled nitrogen needs by wine yeasts.

What does YAN have to do with Hydrogen Sulfide?

Winemakers often talk about YAN in relation to hydrogen sulfide (H₂S) as the two have been associated with one another throughout primary fermentation.  Although there are several potential causes of hydrogen sulfide formation during wine production, some of which we will talk about in our Part 2 series, nitrogen imbalance has been one of the factors that winemakers can influence through production.  Unfortunately, there is no way to ensure that a wine will not produce hydrogen sulfide by the end of fermentation, but treating wines with proper nutrient supplementation can help minimize the incidence of hydrogen sulfide production during primary fermentation.

Hydrogen sulfide is produced by the yeast cell via the sulfate reduction pathway (Figure 1).  While I know this figure looks scientifically daunting, we can try to simplify its purpose to discuss how hydrogen sulfide is released into wine.  Sulfate (SO₄^2-), naturally abundant in grape juice (Eschenbruch 1974), is transported into the yeast cell for amino acid (cysteine and methionine) development, which are naturally lacking in concentration in grape juice (Bell and Henschke, 2005).  Energy is used by the yeast (represented as ATP in Figure 1) to chemically alter the structure of sulfate in order to make it useable by the yeast cell.  This useable form can be seen as sulfide (S^2-) in the image below.  Using nitrogen, which is required to make an amino acid, the sulfide content is depleted as cysteine and methionine amino acids get produced.  Therefore, as sulfide reserves are depleted, cysteine and methionine contents generally increase to be used for building proteins that will be needed by the existing or new yeast cells.

Figure 1: A simplified version of the sulfate reduction pathway.

Sulfur dioxide (SO₂) plays a role in the sulfate reduction pathway in that it bypasses the transport mechanism required to bring sulfur into the yeast cell.  It other words, it can diffuse across the cell membrane and into the internal parts of the yeast cell.  Sulfur dioxide will get chemically altered to be made into the useable sulfide , S^2-, form as well.  Therefore, fermentations that contain a high concentration of sulfur dioxide at the start of fermentation have the potential to increase the utilization of sulfur dioxide during yeast metabolism.

These processes function normally until a depletion of nitrogen (from the nitrogen pool) or an accumulation of sulfide develops in the yeast cell.

If there is not enough nitrogen (low YAN fermentations) available to make the sulfur-containing amino acids (cysteine and methionine) then, eventually, the yeast cell will not be able to continue manufacturing these amino acids.  In this situation, the sulfide concentration generally starts to increase within the yeast cell.

The chemical form sulfide, however, is toxic to the yeast cell and thus, the yeast will try to eliminate it from its internal structures.  Therefore, when sulfide concentrations get too high, the yeast will diffuse this across its cell membrane into the surrounding media: the fermenting juice.  When hydrogen sulfide concentrations get high enough in the fermenting juice, winemakers can often sense the rotten or hardboiled egg aroma associated with the compound.

What if there is too much nitrogen?

In contrast, too much nitrogen (high YAN fermentations) can also be problematic.  Higher concentrations of the inorganic component of YAN can lead to a high initial biomass (population) of yeast.  The rapid increase in yeast populations can lead to nutrient starvation by a majority of the yeast when the wine is about almost finished completing fermentation.  With a large biomass of yeast incapable of obtaining the proper nutrient (nitrogen) content to grow and reproduce, hydrogen sulfide development can result.  This is due to the fact that there is a large population of yeast in situations in which there is not enough nitrogen to support their growth (i.e., there is not a lot of food to go around for all of the yeast cells).  With hydrogen sulfide development occurring late in primary fermentation, it is obvious that the winemaker would become concerned with hydrogen sulfide retention by the time fermentation is fully complete.

Too much nitrogen can also cause other quality problems.  Due to the excess amount of available nutrients, yeast can grow and reproduce quickly, which often leads to very rapid or very hot fermentations.  The speed of fermentation, of course, can affect the aromatics and quality of the wine (i.e., fast fermentations often lead to simpler aroma and flavor profiles).  This may not be an issue with some styles of wine, but for many white wine or fruit (other than grapes)-based fermentations, aromatic retention is often a priority by the winemaker.

Due to the fact the initial YAN is so high, all of the nitrogen contents may not be utilized by the yeast population by the end of fermentation, and could remain in suspension in the finished wine.  As yeasts begin to autolyze, all of their inner components, including the remaining nitrogen content, will become available in the wine.  The excess “food” could be available for other microorganisms (like acetic acid bacteria, lactic acid bacteria, or Brettanomyces), which could potentially lead to spoilage problems if the wine is not properly stabilized.  Such spoilage is, obviously, detrimental to wine quality and undesirable by the winemaker.  Alternatively, remaining nutrients could be utilized by malolactic bacteria or those wines that will be given tirage for sparkling production (Bell and Henschke, 2005).

Finally, higher YAN concentrations can lead to an increased risk of ethyl carbamate production in wine; ethyl carbamate is a known carcinogen that can give susceptible individuals headaches, or even respiratory illness.  Ethyl carbamate is produced in a reaction between ethanol and urea (Bell and Henschke, 2005).  The heavy use of DAP has also been linked to a higher potential risks of ethyl carbamate due to the fact that DAP inhibits the transport of amino acids into the yeast cells, and therefore, leaves a higher concentration of amino acids available that can potentially be altered into urea, a precursor for ethyl carbamate (Bell and Henschke, 2005).

The fact that excess nitrogen can be problematic during wine production should provide insight to winemakers to avoid over-supplementing their fermentations.  Hence, it is often recommended to that winemakers measure and identify their starting concentration of YAN and supplement accordingly.

Nitrogen Supplementation

Nitrogen (nutrient) management and supplementation is not uncommon during primary fermentation as nutrients are an important component of yeast cell growth and metabolism.  In the yeast cell, nitrogen is a required nutrient in the synthesis of amino acids and to build proteins that are used in the yeast cell walls and organelles, as discussed above.  Without protein development, the yeast cell cannot live.

Winemakers can supplement their fermentations with nitrogen by adding nutrient supplements in the form of:

• Hydration nutrients (e.g., GoFerm, Nutriferm)
• Complex nutrients (e.g., Fermaid K, Nutriferm)
• Diammonium phosphate (DAP)

DAP is considered an inorganic form of nitrogen, while the complex nutrients may contain additional organic yeast components that contribute organic forms of nitrogen.  Recall, above, that the inorganic form of nitrogen is more readily consumed by yeast, and it can be easily absorbed by yeast cells even as alcohol concentrations rise during primary fermentation.  Amino acids, on the other hand, require energy expenditure in order to be brought into the cell through transport proteins located on the cell membrane.  The presence of both alcohol and ammonium ions inhibit the transfer of amino acids from the juice into the yeast cell (Santos, 2014).  Therefore, it is often recommended to avoid the addition DAP or products that contain DAP (i.e., Fermaid K, Nutriferm Advance) at inoculation and until after yeasts have the opportunity to best absorb amino acids.  If you are looking for some guidance on when to add nutrients to your fermentation, please refer to our Wine Made Easy fact sheet on the Penn State Extension website.

Starting YAN Concentrations

Nonetheless, nutrient supplementation strategies are often based on starting YAN concentrations in the fruit.  Due to the regular variability of YAN concentrations, winemakers are encouraged to measure YAN for each lot of grapes every year.  This is often problematic for winemakers whom do not have the time to run the appropriate analyses associated with YAN or the financial resources to send samples to an analytical lab.  Such challenges force many winemakers into a situation in which all fermentation lots are treated with the same repeated nutrient supplementation regardless of the starting concentration of YAN.

In previous Extension workshops, research from Cornell University on Riesling wine grapes found that they could accurately predict the harvest YAN when good field samples were taken within 2 weeks from harvest (Nisbet et al., 2013).  In 2016, Cornell released a second publication that focused on YAN prediction models for Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Noiret, Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Traminette.  While the prediction models were not recommended for regions outside of the Finger Lakes (where the data was sourced from for this study), they found that in some cases, YAN data could be obtained within 5 weeks of harvest (Nisbet et al., 2014).  This extra flexibility in time can aid in obtaining accurate YAN results before the grapes reach the crush pad, which ultimately helps winemakers prepare for nutrient supplementation before the start of fermentation.

Until further research can provide predictive modeling for other wine regions, it is generally accepted that winemakers should measure YAN at or as close to harvest as possible.

YAN can be measured using the following the analytical procedures:

• Enzymatic methods for both primary amino acids and ammonium.
• Probe for ammonium ions.
• Formol titration

While the Formol titration is often preferred by many small wineries due to the lower start-up investment, the use of formaldehyde, a known carcinogen and lung irritant, in this protocol does require some consideration for laboratory safety.  Additionally, the proper disposal of formaldehyde, a hazardous substance, can be an issue for many wineries.

Enzymatic methods by spectrophotometer definitely require a bit of experience in order to become more efficient in their use, which can be problematic for those operations that find measuring YAN too timely.  Additionally, enzymatic kits have to be purchased fresh and have a small shelf life.  The advantage of investing in a spectrophotometer, however, is that other enzymatic kits can be purchased to measure additional wine components including residual sugar, malic acid, and acetic acid.

Nonetheless, measuring YAN should be a consideration for wineries that struggle with hydrogen sulfide aromas by the end of primary fermentation.  It is through the starting numerical value that winemakers can better manage and adjust nutrient supplementation strategies to help minimize the reoccurrence of hydrogen sulfide at the end of fermentation.

 

Nutrient availability during primary fermentation is only one potential contributor to hydrogen sulfide formation in wines.  In the next blog post, we’ll explore other potential causes of hydrogen sulfide formation and how to best mediate the problem when it exists.

 

References

Eschenbruch. R. 1974. Sulfite and sulfide formation during winemaking – a review. Am. J. Enol. Vitic. 25(3): 157-161.

Bell, S.-J. and P.A. Henschke. 2005. Implications of nitrogen nutrition for grapes, fermentation and wine. Aust. J. Grape and Wine Res. 11:242-295.

Mansfield, A.K. Are you feeding your yeast?: The importance of YAN in healthy fermentation. Webinar. Feb. 2014.

Nisbet, M.A., T.E. Martinson, and A.K. Mansfield. 2013. Preharvest prediction of yeast assimilable nitrogen in Finger Lakes Riesling using linear and multivariate modeling. Am. J. Enol. Vitic. 64(4): 485-494.

Nisbet, M.A., T.E. Martinson, and A.K. Mansfield. 2014. Accumulation and prediction of yeast assimilible nitrogen in New York winegrape cultivars. Am. J. Enol. Vitic. 65(3): 325-332.

Santos, J. Getting Ready for Harvest: Yeast Nutritional Needs. Workshop Seminar. July 2014.

Sparkling Wine Production Workshop Coming to Penn State Extension – An Applied Workshop for Wine and Hard Cider Producers

By: Denise M. Gardner

On March 7, 2017, Penn State Extension will host their first sparkling wine production workshop titled: Improving Bubblies in the Eastern U.S. at the Great Valley Penn State campus in Malvern, PA.  (For more information on this program, please click on the title of the workshop.)

Figure 1: Sparkling wines at the tasting bar at Iron Horse Winery in CA. Photo by: Denise M. Gardner

Sparkling wine and sparkling [hard] cider production has become a hot topic for many Eastern producers.  Some are interested in traditional sparkling wine production methods, occasionally referred to as méthode champenoise, while others are integrating modern approaches into their processing facilities to incorporate bubbles in their wines.  The use of pressurized tanks, bottling under a pressurized system, and completing fermentation while retaining carbonation in a tank are all processes I have seen during my recent travels throughout the state.  While pét-nats will not be covered at this workshop, there is a previous blog post pertaining to pét-nat production, which you can find here.

Sparkling wine production is a specific form of wine production that incorporates and retains carbon dioxide in the finished wine.  The traditional method, méthode champenoise, includes the production of a base wine to about 10-11% alcohol and is bottled with the liquor de triage: a combination of sugar, yeast, and yeast nutrient.  The bottle is sealed and as the second fermentation progresses in the bottle, the carbonation produced by the yeast is retained.  Once this second primary fermentation is complete, the bottles are riddled (Figure 2) to collect the dead yeast cells within the neck of the bottle.

Figure 2: Two ways of riddling sparkling wine at Korbel Wine Cellars, CA. Photos by: Denise M. Gardner

Each bottle is then individually disgorged and the dosage is added to the wine for final sugar adjustment.  Then, each bottle is sealed with a Champagne cork.  Both Champagne and Cava are great examples of wines produced by the traditional method.

Other methods of producing and retaining carbon dioxide exist.  In the Charmat method, once the base wine is finished fermenting, it is moved to a tank that can withstand pressure.  The triage is mixed into the wine within the pressurized tank.  When the second fermentation is complete, the spent yeast will settle at the bottom of the tank, and the wine must be racked under pressure to retain the carbonation produced by the second dose of yeast and sugar.  The final dosage is added to the wine and then bottled under pressure.  Italian Prosecco sparkling wines are great examples of the use of the Charmat process.

Others may utilize direct carbonation after the base wine has been completely finished.  This can aid in creating a very fruit-forward style of sparkling wine or used to carbonate fruit wines or ciders.

This program will cover information for producers looking to get into sparkling wine or cider production or for those that would like to improve the quality of their products just a bit more.

We’ll cover basic harvest parameters (i.e., Brix, pH, TA and grape flavors) associated with traditional sparkling benchmark producers and discuss the general production and chemical composition of the base wine used to create sparkling products.

Additional speakers include Jerry Forest, the founder of Buckingham Valley Vineyards, Steve DiFrancesco, the winemaker at Glenora Wine Cellars in NY, and Megan Hereford from Scott Labs.  As popular sparkling wine producers, Jerry and Steve will discuss their experiences with sparkling wine production throughout their winemaking careers.  They will cover technical details pertaining to managing the second fermentation in the bottle for those attempting to produce a sparkling wine in the méthode champenoise style.  Additionally, Steve will cover alternative methods for incorporating and maintaining carbonation in sparkling wines.  Megan will also give a technical talk on how to stabilize sparkling wines, including the use of CMC in sparkling wines.  This is a great session for those producers looking for practical tips on how to produce sparkling wine.

After a catered lunch, a panel of regional winemakers will share sparkling wines for all attendees to taste and discuss the processing techniques associated with those wines.  This is an educationally-focused tasting so discussion is encouraged and expectorating all samples is mandatory.

While this program has a tasting component focused on sparkling wines, all of the techniques and information will be applicable to hard cider producers, as well.

Registration, the full agenda, location, and cost of the program can be found here: Sparkling Wine Production: Improving Bubblies in the Eastern U.S.  We hope to see you there!

Offering Tasting Room Visitors an Experience

By Dr. Kathy Kelley

A couple of years ago I wrote a blog on creating a winery tasting room experience based on the book “The Experience Economy: Work is Theater & Every Business a Stage,” written by Joseph Pine II and James H. Gilmore.  In that blog, I provided examples from several businesses that incorporated components of the four “E’s” of an experience: education, esthetic/aesthetic, escapism, and entertainment (http://bit.ly/25XA6xK).

Today, I want to provide you with even more examples based on a recent trip to Oslo, Norway, where I visited Himkok, a micro distillery that has received quite a bit of praise from both bloggers and customers.  From the exterior/entrances to the bartenders’ apparel, the concept incorporates all of the four E’s of an experience.

It is all necessary because if a customer does not respond as expected, one component (e.g. employee buy-in and participation, promotions, social media messages) does not support the main concept, or if the level of product quality or customer service is disappointing then the whole experience will likely fail.

 

HIMKOK: A Complete Tasting Room Experience

Consider the following: you are visiting a city for the first time and you read about Himkok and that they offer several of their own ciders and distilled spirits, and you have seen a few reviews online that convince you to stop in for a drink.  You have the address (and you can locate it on a map app using your smartphone’s GPS) but there are no obvious markings nor is there a sign with the name of the establishment you are trying to find.

After a couple of passes in front of the building, you decided to ask the barista at the coffee chop across the street for help – and she confirms that you are in the right place and that you’ll find the tasting room right behind the wood door at 27 Storgata Street.

I’ll have to admit that this was a little bit puzzling.  Even their website is void of any information other than the address and a contact form (www.himkok.no).   Most businesses want their customers to find them easily and without any degree of frustration.  So, why would this barely a year-old business be so elusive?  It all has to do with the “theme” of the business: a modern day speakeasy.

Why a theme?  Because a theme can help create a “distinct shopping experience” (http://bit.ly/1PXRFtG) and several wineries, cideries, and distilleries in our region work off a theme to differential themselves from their competition.  Keep in mind that for a theme to be believable and engage consumers, all components need to reinforce it – even those that you feel the customer won’t even notice.  “Every detail of your store should maximize appeal for customers…retail fixtures actually play a large role” (http://bit.ly/24MamCg).

Whether you enter through the door at 27 Storgata or you enter through the “other” entrance, you are introduced to the theme through the décor, fixtures, lighting, etc.  While both entrances are a “cover” for what is inside – one entrance mimics a small grocery store with jars of food while the other is a full-service barber shop, PelsPels (www.pelspels.no), with a crew of barbers selected by Lord Jack Knife, “one of the best barbers in the world.”

We were not the only first-time visitors to be confused by the lack of signage – rather one of the bartenders told us that some customers just walk in because they either mistake it for another type of business or they are just intrigued by the amount of traffic entering and exiting the establishment.

Thus, our experience had just begun.

Whatta ya have to drink?

Aside from gin, rum, vodka, and other distilled spirits, Himkok offers customers drinks made with aquavit.  What is aquavit?  The spirit, which dates back to the 1500s, is Scandinavian and is distilled from grain with caraway seed being “the primary flavor, through fennel, dill, and anise are also common” (http://bit.ly/1U9GyzF).  According to one aficionado, it “is much more rounded and approachable to sip straight than vodka” (http://bit.ly/1U7xGVY).  There are differences between aquavit that you’ll find in Norway (which is aged in sherry oak cases) compared to what you might drink in Denmark or Sweden.

Spirits, cider, and other offerings are priced at a premium. The cider I purchased for the evening cost me about $11.00 (cocktails average $14.60 each), but I was willing to pay it considering my surroundings and how the experience made me “feel.”  Charging a price premium for these handcrafted concoctions is not a bad thing – rather lower priced drinks and bottles would work against what is designed to be the best-kept secret in the city.

There is no need for Himkok to compete on price – consumers are willing to pay for quality alcoholic beverages (http://bit.ly/24PweMY).  In 2015, consumers traded up in terms of prices they were willing to pay for bottles of spirits.  Sales of “High End” spirits (priced between $20 and $30 a bottle) grew 7.1% in volume and “Super Premium” spirits (priced $30 or more) grew 6.5% in volume in 2015.

As you may recall, consumers are also trading up pertaining to the wine they purchase.  Retail prices were up 3.3% in January 2016 and “instead of buying a bottle of wine for $10 [consumers are] buying a bottle of wine for $12; instead of buying it for $15, [they are] buying it for $20” (http://bit.ly/1YpXH8f).

Himkok cocktails are on point with 2016 cocktail trends, namely a spin on the classic cocktails (http://bit.ly/1OtglCK).  With “variations on the classic Moscow mule [being] huge right now,” Himkok offers the Oslo mule, for example, and “disco era cocktails,” such as the Old Fashioned and martinis, which are expected to remain popular through 2016 (http://bit.ly/24Owfkb).

They also offer a few signature cocktails (having a signature cocktail on the menu “gives the guest an impression of a ‘complete’ experience” http://bit.ly/1MdpO3C) such as the “Beta Cocktail” (made with vodka, carrot, ginger, and ginseng) and “Monkey Butter” (made with bourbon, banana, peanut better, and citrus).  I tried them both and they were surprisingly good.

Wine cocktails are another trend that deserves attention.  Such cocktails appeal to younger drinkers, according to a Gallo Consumer Wine Trends Survey:

• 66% of younger drinkers responded that they “mix wine with fruit or fruit juice,”
• “mix wine with other cocktail mixers like club soda” (http://bit.ly/1BVu5lL).

Sangria and mimosa, two more well know wine cocktails, have been on bar and restaurant beverage menus for a number of years, but with a slight change in the fruit, fruit juice, or liquor used – these classic can become something of a signature drink.

Though it may not be feasible for many who read this blog to offer wine cocktails in their establishment, consider:

• posting wine cocktail recipes on your website and through social media,
• distributing copies to customers who purchase bottles of corresponding wine, that are the base of the cocktail,
• hold contests for tasting room customers and offer a prize for the most creative cocktail, most tasty cocktail that uses trendy ingredients (you will find seaweed as an ingredient for Himkok’s “In the Weeds” cocktail, http://bit.ly/1UMqhxF), etc.

But there is more…

While not without a financial investment or the possibility of a wine on tap system having issues that affect the quality of the pour, having wines on tap is a trend that has yet to “peak” as a result of demand.  In fact, it is expected that in 2016 wine on tap will account for “around 1% of total U.S. on-premise wine consumption…[and] will have risen to 5%” by 2020 (http://bit.ly/1UhWI77).

“Wine on tap offers a bit of fun and theatre to the traditional serve” (http://bit.ly/1OnvnBi) and demand has “steadily increased around 7%” because of its appeal among Millennial consumers “over the last four to five years” (http://bit.ly/1ZOpjT7).  Twenty-eight percent of these consumers seek an “on premise… ‘unique drink experience,’” followed by 19% of members of Generation X and 13% of Baby Boomers (http://bit.ly/1ZOpjT7).

Rotating wines available on tap and offering only certain wines are important to keeping the offering “fresh.”  Limiting availability and offering seasonal wines on tap changes the tasting room offering enough to encourage consumers to visit and try the wine only available during the next x weeks or the late fall months.  When you change a portion of the tasting room layout or product offering, you give customer a reason to visit and have a “new” experience.

To learn more about Himkok, access an article written by Hanne Stensvold by clicking this link: http://bit.ly/1UMqhxF

Next month’s blog

I’m sure that by now you have heard or read about La Cité du Vin (City of Wine), located in Bordeaux, and called “a wine theme park for adults” (http://bit.ly/1qKzP1h).  I will be visiting the museum in a couple of week and will share my experience when I return.

Hard Cider Production Resources

By: Denise M. Gardner

On January 13^th, Penn State Extension hosted their first Hard Cider Production workshop at the Fruit Research and Extension Center (FREC) in Biglerville, PA. The day was filled with various speakers from New York, Pennsylvania and Virginia with perspectives from various Mid-Atlantic state hard cider industries. Topics were focused on the economics of hard cider production in the Mid-Atlantic, experiences with growing apples for hard cider production, how to produce hard cider, and orchard considerations for new hard cider apple variety growers.

Attendees of the 2015 Hard Cider Production workshop captivated by the lecture series.

Attendees of the 2015 Hard Cider Production workshop tasting a series of hard ciders from around the world.

Hard ciders tasted at the 2015 Hard Cider Production workshop.

The program was incredibly successful and included a tasting of 8 different hard ciders, emphasizing the variation in styles and flavor currently available on the market:

• Bellweather King Baldwin Hard Cider: With the least residual sugar, this light weight, well-balanced, dry cider had a lingering finish of citrus and apple flavors. For those getting into the industry, this is a good example of a well-made, clean hard cider.
• Distillary Lane Jefferson Hard Cider: One of the oakier ciders provided during the tasting, with prominent vanilla, oak and light apple flavors.
• Dupont Bouche Hard Cider: An amber color with a Brettanomyces aroma and flavor dominating the cider. Sweetness was well integrated and matched well with the barnyard flavors. A good example of Burgundian ciders.
• Eve’s Cidery Bittersweet Hard Cider: Floral with complementing cooked apple flavors, carbon dioxide was light and tasted less sweet than intended due to its tannic mouthfeel.
• Good Intent Good Charmat Hard Cider: A local, PA-produced cider with light petulance and butterscotch notes in addition to the apple juice aroma. Semi-sweet.
• Henney’s Vintage Hard Cider: This golden-yellow cider was the subject of much discussion. Flavors of Band-Aid and nailpolish dominated the nose, but had more apple flavor on the palate to supplement the acidic, acetic acid flavors.
• Big Hill Standard Hard Cider: Produced from a local cidery in PA, the light cooked apple favor of this cider was prominent with its sweetened mouthfeel.
• Bold Rock Hard Cider: A producer from New York that is producing a more commercial style of hard cider. This hard cider emphasized vanilla and light apple notes with a well-integrated and sweetened finish.

Analysis details of hard ciders tasted during the Penn State Extension Hard Cider Production 2015 workshop.

Attendees had many focused questions in various topic areas, which acknowledged the lack of resources available for the hard cider entrepreneur. The following lists a series of resources that were provided at this workshop that may be good starting points if you or your business is looking into hard cider production.

Consider Attending the Next Penn State Extension Hard Cider Production Workshop

This workshop focused on individuals that were thinking about or in the planning stages of building a business around hard cider production.

 

Text Books on Hard Cider Production

“Sweet and Hard Cider” by Annie Proulx and Lew Nichols

“The New Cider Maker’s Handbook” by Claude Jolicoeur

 

Online Publications for Apple Growers

“Antique Apples for Modern Orchards” by Ian Merwin, NY Fruit Quarterly 2009

“Growing Apples for Craft Ciders” by Ian Merwin (future issue of NY Fruit Quarterly)

WSU Bulletin on Cider Program in Mt. Vernan

 

Online Publications for Hard Cider Production

Hard Cider Production at Virginia Tech

Fermentation Protocols from Washington State University

Cider Juice Analysis Protocol from Washington State University

Scott Labs Hard Cider Fermentation Protocol

 

Cider Organizations and Conferences

US Association for Cider Makers

Cider & Perry Academy

CiderCon (Chicago, IL)

 

Online Information or Websites

Wittenham Hill Cider Pages

Scott Labs Hard Cider Handbook

Penn State Extension Fruit Times

Old Time Cider (with additional resources)

 

Other Extension Programs Useful for the Hard Cider Producer

Penn State Extension – Wine Quality Improvement Workshop: Wine Defect Identification, Prevention, and Remediation

Cornell University: Cider & Perry Production – Principles and Practice Workshop

Penn State Extension – Sanitation Short Course

Warwickshire College Hard Cider Production Workshop

Northwest Agricultural Business Center Hard Cider & Perry Production Workshop

Oregon State University Craft Cidery Start Up Workshop